Monday, December 29, 2008

Apple Pie

Cook's Illustrated, and its television show, America's Test Kitchen, are really my go-to source for all things cooking-related: recipes, tips, ratings of brands or gadgets. Whether I want to know the cheapest cut of meat that will taste good and pan-sear well, which brand of olive oil is a best buy, or a tip to get around a problem I didn't have the knowledge or the equipment to fix, Cook's Illustrated is where I look first.

So the recipe I've been experimenting with for apple pie, which is usually my responsibility at holiday dinners, is based on the one in The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook (a.k.a. my culinary bible). I've edited it over the past few holiday seasons based on my own experience, tips from family, and recipes from Alton Brown (a.k.a. The Man). It's still a work in progress, but below is the recipe as I've developed so far.

Hardware
  • 1 9-inch pie plate
  • rolling pin
  • cling wrap for refrigerating dough
  • food processor (not absolutely essential, but incredibly time-saving)
  • spray bottle for dispersing liquid into dough
  • baking sheet
Ingredients
For the crust:
  • 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out the dough
  • 2 tbs sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 8 tbs Crisco or vegetable shortening, frozen or chilled in ice water
  • 12 tbs butter, unsalted, frozen, in ½-¾ inch cubes (don't stress about getting the butter completely uniform in size)
  • 6 to 8 tbs of vodka, brandy (or Calvados...Alton Brown recommends applejack) or liquor of choice; in a spray bottle with ice (water can be substituted if you prefer not to use alcohol in the recipe)
For the filling:
  • 2 lbs (4 to 6) Mclntosh apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges, about ½ inch wide
  • 1½ pounds (3 to 4) Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges, about ½ inch wide
  • ¼ cup + 1 tbs white sugar
  • 2/3 cup light brown sugar, tightly packed
  • ¼ cup dark brown sugar, tightly packed
  • 2 tbs flour
  • 1½ tbs lemon juice
  • 1 tsp fresh lemon zest
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1 tbs cinnamon
  • 2 tsp nutmeg
  • a dusting of ground clove
Directions
For the crust:
  1. Process the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor until combined. Scatter the shortening over the top and process until the mixture has the texture of coarse sand, about 10 seconds.
  2. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and, using short pulses, process the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Transfer to a bowl.
  3. Use the spray bottle containing the liquor/ice mixture, gently mixing with a rubber spatula after every 5-6 sprays. Press the dough together with the spatula until the dough sticks together. (Test by grabbing a bit of dough and squeezing it in your fist. The dough should come together easily, but not be sticky.) If the dough does not come together, distribute the remaining liquid until it does.
  4. Divide the dough into two even pieces and flatten each into a 4-inch disk. Wrap the disks tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour or overnight.
  5. Let the chilled dough soften slightly at room temperature before rolling it out and fitting the bottom crust into a 9-inch pie plate.

To Make Ahead: The dough can be refrigerated, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Let the frozen dough thaw on the countertop until malleable before rolling.

For the filling:
  1. Adjust an oven rack to the lowest position, place a rimmed baking sheet on the rack, and heat the oven to 500°F (260°C).
  2. Toss the apples with ¼ cup of the white sugar, the light brown sugar, and the salt. Transfer the apple mixture to a colander and set to drain in the sink for about 45 minutes.
  3. While the apples are draining, roll out the top crust to a 12-inch circle.
  4. Transfer the apples from the colander back into the mixing bowl. Add the flour, spices, dark brown sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Mix to combine.
  5. Spread the apples in the unbaked pie crust bottom, mounding them slightly in the middle. Loosely roll the top crust around the rolling pin, then gently unroll it over the apples.
  6. Trim all but 1/2-inch of the dough overhanging the edge of the pie plate with scissors. Seal the edge by pressing the top and bottom crusts together, then tuck the edges underneath. Crimp the edges, and cut four vent holes in the top. Brush the crust with the egg white and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar.
  7. Place the pie on the heated baking sheet and lower the oven temperature to 425°F (220°C). Bake until the top crust is golden, about 25 minutes. Rotate the baking sheet, reduce the oven temperature again to 375°F (190°C), and continue to bake until the juices are bubbling and the crust is deep golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes longer. Transfer the pie to a wire rack and cool to room temperature before serving.
To Make Ahead: The pie can be stored at room temperature, wrapped tightly in aluminum foil, for up to 2 days.

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